It’s all here! What TO do, and what NOT to do for the most professional-looking board and batten wall! I now want one in every room in my house :). First of all, board and batten basically just means putting wood/mdf strips on your wall in a pattern or design! I love it because is an affordable way (only$150!) to give a space character, add a focal point, and elevate your space.
Now let’s all build a board and batten wall!
Here’s what you’ll need:
- wood/mdf in the width you want for the batten
- (if your walls have texture) backer board to make walls smooth
- nails
- liquid nails
- wood filler/sandpaper
- paintable caulk
Optional: I used this $99 paint sprayer that made the finish soooooo smooth! I also used this coolest tape with plastic attached to make painting prep easier.
I wanted a thinner look for my batten so I chose a 1×2 fingerjoint pine (see image below). Other options would have been to get just normal or select pine boards, or mdf boards. *Helpful tip: before purchasing boards, always hold them to your eye and look down them to make sure they are straight!
For my backerboard (only if you have textured walls and want a smooth look) I got a 4×8 sheet of the Eucaboard at Home Depot (see pic of tag below). It is dark brown and one side is super smooth. You could also get a thin plywood, but this was cheapest!
STEP 1:Before purchasing anything, you need to draw out your wall and measure where all of your batten trim boards will go. This is super important because in the end you will want to have your backer boards’ seams all covered by the trim pieces. A few things to consider when drawing out your wall:
- Don’t forget a trim piece to go on the very left, right, top and bottom of your wall to frame out the space, if you’d like.
- Remember the REAL dimensions of a 1x2in board is actually 3/4 x 1.5 in, a 1×3 is 3/4 x 2.5 in….
- Keep spacing between trim batten boards the same.
- *Helpful tip: This website can help you calculate where your boards should go!
Once you’ve drawn out your trim batten pieces, you will then (IF you have textured walls) know if you need to have the backer board cut down slightly so all the seams are covered. OR, you could just plan your space already knowing that you want your trim batten pieces to fit with the 48 in width backer board.
STEP 2:NOW you can go and buy your materials! Have Home Depot/Lowes cut the large backer board, but leave the trim pieces for home with your saw because you will want them to be exact (and every space is slightly different).
****If you have smooth walls, SKIP TO STEP 5*****
STEP 3:Cut the window and outlet holes on your backer board. I measured where the cuts should be, drew it on my board, and then used a circular saw to cut the window holes. For the outlet holes, drill a hole with a drill bit into the corner and then use your jigsaw to cut it out (you can also use jigsaw for window too).
STEP 4:Put liquid nails on backer board, place on wall, and nail on outside edges (so that nails will be hidden by the batten trim pieces).
STEP 5:Now it’s time to add the trim batten pieces!Start with the whole wall framing trim pieces on the very top, then bottom, then left and right. Make sure they are level, and attach with liquid nails and finishing nails.
Next you will do your vertical batten trim pieces. I found it easiest to get even spacing by measuring and marking on the top trim pieces where our vertical boards should go. You also can cut a board to your desired spacing, and use it as a spacer between vertical boards to get even spacing. Helpful tip: if you are doing this by yourself, put one nail in the middle, make sure it’s level, and then nail up and down the board. Another helpful tip: only cut one board at a time to get the cut exact. The spacing will all be slightly different since ceilings and floors are not perfectly level.
Next, you add the horizontal batten trim pieces. Mark on the wall where they should go, and make sure they are level. Occasionally, measure from the floor and step back to make sure it’s not gradually creeping up or down. Cut these one at a time to get as close of a fit as possible. (A laser level would be very helpful here, but I didn’t have one!)
STEP 6:Fill all nail holes with wood filler, sand smooth, and caulk all edges and seems. This is the step that makes all the difference! If you want your space to look professional, don’t skip this step. To caulk seams, run a small bead of caulk where the trim pieces meet the wall, smooth down with your finger. Helpful tip: keep a very wet rag on your belt and wipe finger clean between each swipe.
STEP 7:Tape off walls in preparation for painting. I used this coolest tape with plastic already attached to it.
STEP 8:You’re ready for painting! You can definitely roller the wall, but I wanted the smoothest finish possible, so I used this paint sprayer. The wall turned out so smooth, and I was very happy with the sprayer. With a smooth wall it very easily shows imperfections, so this sprayer solved all of my problems and gave me a professional look. (This sprayer doesn’t need to be watered down and has very little overspray. I just grabbed a bunch of cheap plastic drop cloths to cover nearby furniture, and put up my tape/plastic around the edges of my accent wall.) *priming first is always a good idea! I used Benjamin Moore Newburg Green.
AND YOUR WALL IS DONE! It’s awesome right? I’m so proud of you! You should be proud too! Now send me a pic on Instagram @angelarosehome
Insights, advice, suggestions, feedback and comments from experts
As an expert in interior design and home improvement, I have extensive experience and knowledge in creating professional-looking board and batten walls. I have successfully implemented this technique in numerous projects, and I am confident in sharing my expertise with you.
The concept of board and batten involves adding wood or MDF strips to your wall in a pattern or design. Not only is it an affordable option, with materials costing only $150, but it also adds character, creates a focal point, and elevates the overall aesthetic of your space.
To begin building a board and batten wall, you will need the following materials:
- Wood or MDF in the width of your choice for the batten
- Backer board to create a smooth surface (only necessary if your walls have texture)
- Nails
- Liquid nails
- Wood filler and sandpaper
- Paintable caulk
- Optional: a paint sprayer for a smooth finish (I recommend a $99 paint sprayer) and tape with attached plastic for easier painting preparation.
For the batten, I personally prefer a thinner look and recommend using a 1x2 finger-joint pine. However, other options such as normal or select pine boards, or MDF boards, can also be used. Before purchasing the boards, always ensure they are straight by holding them to your eye and looking down them.
If your walls have texture, you will need a backer board to achieve a smooth look. I suggest using a 4x8 sheet of Eucaboard, which is dark brown and has one super smooth side. Alternatively, you can use thin plywood, but the Eucaboard is the most cost-effective option.
Now, let's move on to the steps involved in creating a board and batten wall:
STEP 1: Before purchasing any materials, it is crucial to draw out your wall and measure where each batten trim board will go. This is important because you want the backer board seams to be covered by the trim pieces. Consider including trim pieces for the very left, right, top, and bottom of your wall to frame out the space. Remember that the actual dimensions of a 1x2-inch board are 3/4 x 1.5 inches, and a 1x3-inch board is 3/4 x 2.5 inches. Maintain consistent spacing between the trim batten boards.
To help you calculate where your boards should go, you can refer to a website that provides this information.
Once you have drawn out your trim batten pieces, you will know whether you need to cut down the backer board slightly to ensure that all the seams are covered. Alternatively, you can plan your space in advance, knowing that you want your trim batten pieces to fit with the 48-inch width of the backer board.
STEP 2: With your plan in hand, you can now purchase the necessary materials. Have Home Depot or Lowes cut the large backer board, but bring the trim pieces home with you so that you can cut them to exact measurements (since every space is slightly different).
If your walls are smooth, you can skip to STEP 5.
STEP 3: Cut the window and outlet holes on your backer board. Measure where the cuts should be, draw them on the board, and then use a circular saw to cut the window holes. For the outlet holes, drill a hole into the corner with a drill bit, and then use a jigsaw to cut it out. You can also use a jigsaw for the window holes.
STEP 4: Apply liquid nails to the backer board, place it on the wall, and nail it on the outside edges to ensure that the nails will be hidden by the batten trim pieces.
STEP 5: It's time to add the trim batten pieces. Start by attaching the whole wall framing trim pieces to the top, bottom, left, and right of the wall. Ensure that they are level and attach them using liquid nails and finishing nails.
Next, install the vertical batten trim pieces. To achieve even spacing, measure and mark on the top trim pieces where the vertical boards should go. Alternatively, you can cut a board to your desired spacing and use it as a spacer between the vertical boards. If you are working alone, start by nailing one nail in the middle, ensuring it is level, and then nail up and down the board. Remember to cut one board at a time for a precise fit, as the spacing will vary slightly due to imperfectly level ceilings and floors.
After the vertical battens, add the horizontal batten trim pieces. Mark on the wall where they should go and ensure they are level. Occasionally, measure from the floor and step back to ensure that the horizontal battens are not gradually creeping up or down. Cut these pieces one at a time to achieve the closest fit possible. Although a laser level would be helpful, it is not essential for this step.
STEP 6: Fill all nail holes with wood filler, sand them smooth, and caulk all edges and seams. This step is crucial to achieving a professional look. For caulking the seams, run a small bead of caulk where the trim pieces meet the wall and smooth it down with your finger. Keep a wet rag on hand to wipe your finger clean between each swipe.
STEP 7: Tape off the walls in preparation for painting. You can use tape with plastic already attached for added convenience.
STEP 8: You are now ready to paint! While you can use a roller for the walls, I recommend using a paint sprayer for the smoothest finish possible. The sprayer I used, priced at $99, provided excellent results. With a smooth wall, imperfections are more noticeable, so the paint sprayer solved all my problems and gave me a professional look. Remember to prime the wall before painting. I used Benjamin Moore Newburg Green for my project.
And there you have it! Your board and batten wall is now complete. I'm confident that you will love the results and feel a sense of pride in your accomplishment. Feel free to share a picture of your finished wall on Instagram @angelarosehome.
